Protective Styles, Breakage, & Product Selection

This month Ask Kenya addresses three questions. She provides advice about protective styles, breakage and hair product choices.

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Dear Kenya,

I was wondering is there such thing as keeping hair protected for too long? I've always heard to let hair breathe but keeping it protected helps retain length so... How much is too much protecting?

I am asking because I am planning on keeping my hair in weaves as much as I can 'til spring and if I do wear my hair out I plan to have it in a frohawk so it still will be protected but will also be able to "breathe"

Betsy


Dear Kenya,

What name brand of shampoo & conditioner do you recommend for natural hair soft texture shoulder length. The humidity is killing.

ClassyChiK_1


Dear Kenya,

I have been in transition for about 6 months and I was thinking about cutting my permed ends off and keeping my hair in kinky twist. I just wanted to know if it was a good idea because I have real bad breakage at the back of my hair. The back is a lot shorter that the rest of my hair.

Bennisha

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Betsy,

I do not consider keeping your hair in a weave on a regular basis
"protecting" your hair. Sure you are not doing anything to it, but the
added hair can damage your own hair. I would pay attention to
your edges and make sure the weave is not causing them to thin. I
think alternating the hair style can be beneficial. Just be careful in
how you manipulate the hair and make sure you are keeping it well
conditioned and moisturized.

Kenya
Your Natural Styling Guide


ClassyChiK_1,

You can try the Jane Carter Solution Hydrating Invigorating Shampoo (SLS
FREE) and the Jane Carter Conditioner. You should also try doing steam
treatments. If you do not wish to invest in a steamer you can mock one by
covering hair with a plastic cap after you have shampooed and applied
conditioner to hair. Then take some hot wet towels and wrap around your
hair for 15 mins. You can warm the wet towels in the microwave for a few
seconds.

Kenya
Your Natural Stying Guide


Bennisha,

If your hair is breaking in the back, Kinky twists may not be the best idea because the extentions would put added tension on the hair and may
break it even further.

Other styling options you can consider include individual
twists, flat twists, or rod sets using just your own hair. These styles
are easy to maintain. When wearing any of these styles be sure to
moisturize daily as natural hair can dry out very easily.

Kenya
Your Natural Stying Guide

Transitioning to and Maintaining Natural Hair

Dear Kenya,

Thanks first off for answering questions in regards to this matter!

1. What is the best way to transition: the big chop or the grow/cut, grow/cut method? Ive heard reviews of both but dont want to damage my hair doing the wrong thing.

2. what are the best methods for maintaining natural hair?

3. What are some of the best products for natural hair?

Thanks in advance for your help,
Tiffanii M Wyatt

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Hi Tiffani.

Thanks so much for your questions. I get these a lot.

1. You have to determine what's best for you. Either way is fine. If
you choose to grow and gradually trim off the relaxed ends you really
have to focus on using products with enough moisture to keep the relaxed
hair from breaking off. You also have to be careful in the way you
manipulate and style the hair. Be careful when detangling. As you grow
more natural hair the relaxed hair becomes easily tangled so try not to
tousel the hair too much. Detangle with your fingers as much as
possible, then go in with a wide tooth comb.

I would suggest more natural styling such as rod sets or flat twist sets
with rods on the end to curl up the straight ends. Also get trims
regularly (every 4-6 weeks). Not only will this get rid of the relaxed
hair but it will also keep the hair manageable.

2. Once your hair is natural and even through the grow out process,
moisture is key! Natural hair or hair with more texture is more fragile
than other types. It dries out and breaks more easily. So use products
with enough moisture. Steam treatments are a must as well. You can do a
steam treatment when you shampoo. After you have applied your conditioner
thoroughly, sit under a hooded steamer for 15-20 mins. If you do not want
to invest in a steamer, you can use a wet hot towel. Warm a wet towel in
the microwave, then wrap around conditioned hair.

Also you should apply a moisturizer daily to natural styles.

3. Products are tricky. What works for one may not work for someone
else. Some lines that I really like include: Jane Carter Solution,
Curls,Design Essentials, and Mixed Chicks to name a few.
If possible you should consult with a natural hair care specialist so that
they can touch and feel your hair to determine what products may work best
for you.

Thanks again,
Kenya
Your Natural Styling Guide.

High Moisture Content Products

Dear Kenya,

My hair is very dry and brittle what should I use? Also, my twist never
have definition what can I use while twisting my hair.

Thank you,
Tamara

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Hi Tamara,

Sounds like you need products with a higher moisture content. With very
dry hair I like to use Moisture Retention Shampoo and Express Conditioner.
Both of these products are by Design Essentials. You should also be
doing a steam treatment each time you shampoo. After you have applied the
conditioner thoroughly from root to tip on every single strand, sit under
a hooded steamer. If you do not want to invest in a hair steamer you can
cover your conditioned hair with a plastic cap and cover the cap with a
hot wet towel for about 15-20 minutes. This process will help to really
push that moisture into the hair shaft. These tips should also help with
the definition of your hair over time.

When you twist your hair, try using a setting/wrap foam. There are a few
out there with no alcohol that will help you get more definition. I like
Jane Carter Solutions wrap foam and Design Essentials Compositions. When
you apply these products make sure you are using enough. You should
saturate each section of hair with the wrap foam as you twist. Once they
are dry you can apply a moisturizer daily like Jane Carter Solution
Nourish and Shine or your product of choice.

I hope these tips help you. Please let me know if you have any other
questions. Thanks a bunch!

Kenya
Your Natural Styling Guide

Natural Hair Biology and Chemistry

My question for Kenya is, because you have a degree in Biology and you were an application chemist, did that knowledge of chemicals play a role in your becoming a natural hairstylist versus applying relaxers?

Thanks,
Denise Denson

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Hi Denise,

As an applications chemist I was able to gain great knowledge of the ingredients needed to make certain hair care products like shampoos, conditioners, gels etc. My initial interest in doing natural hair was triggered by a want to do something not so mainstream at the time. Sure I knew the chemicals needed to make relaxers and how they broke down the hair structure. I also understood that they were causing damage to a lot of peoples hair and scalps. But it wasn't until I actually started working as a stylist and was able to see, touch and feel so many different heads of hair that I truly became aware of how much damage was being caused by relaxers not being applied properly and being applied way to often. My science background has definitely helped in my understanding of this and has increased my love of natural hair. Thanks for the great question.

Kenya
Fabulous Hair Comes Naturally!